dormir debout

I write this on the TGV from Dijon to Paris; an environment conducive to writing and reflection. And my brain is in decent shape, after having slept this weekend. What I mean is that, after sleeping an hour Thursday night and three Friday night, several extended naps coupled with nights of sleeping were needed to bring me back to normal. Such was the end of the final week. Friday was the last day of classes: we received our certificates (I passed with mention très bien) and had a picnic/luncheon of sorts in class. Then we passed the day with some final wandering around town and sightseeing, and a final public party at Place Wilson.

Then everybody left Saturday morning, about. Nothing for me to do but watch French detective movies (Inspector La Bavure) with my host family. But it was not too bad at all. This past week, something opened in my mind and my French began to flow much more freely than before. Maybe it had something to do with being the only one at home (the other student who was staying with my family left Friday morning) and being the focus of conversation.

Saturday evening was quite nice: we went to our upstairs neighbors’ place for appetizers (and ended up eating enough for a whole meal). They are both of Corsican origin, and so we had Corsican food. Which is basically the same stuff as in mainland France (sausage, meat, drinks, bread, cheese) but flavored differently. A bit funny actually. But quite good, because their family back in Corsica makes all of it! So the sausage, cheese, and everything was fresh and homegrown. They advised me to visit sometime, and I plan on it. I have heard that Corsica has many amazing hiking trails and spots for mountain climbing.

My parting thoughts seem to keep gravitating back to the idea of reputation, stereotypes, and perception. Somewhat like what happened on my way back from Egypt last summer – one seems inclined to compare the assumptions that were correct with the assumptions that were not. For example, Americans assume that the French are cold, closed, etc. What I find is not quite the opposite; that the French are open and warm and friendly. I find that the cross-section of people is nearly the same everywhere: there are people who are open, closed, mean, friendly in every country. It depends on who you talk to and how you conduct yourself. I will refrain from making any general statements about French people because they will not end up holding true.

But they do not really eat frog legs like bread or whatever. They are a delicacy and are becoming more expensive, like snails and bread. And oil. I will not even get started on that one….

Everything has officially ended here; since I am staying until Tuesday morning I now have a bit of time with which I can write and things like that. Mostly everyone has left too, so I probably will not be going out every night like I had been. In fact, a Sunday would normally be slow, because most all the cafés and shops are closed, buses run less frequently, and people don’t really walk the streets.

Last Saturday I visited Lyon for a day. Such is the transportation system in France that one can do such things. Two friends and I hopped on a TGV from Dijon, arrived in Lyon about an hour and a half later, and did the same thing to return home. Lyon is one of the oldest cities in France; it was a Roman colony over 2000 years ago (and on the left bank of the river Saône one can still visit Roman ruins). It is the 3rd largest city, and the seat of the Roman Catholic church in France. Anyways, it is probably the coolest city in France – much better than Paris! Although there are close to 2 million inhabitants (and we were there on the first Saturday of the Soldes, the nationwide clothing sale month), the pace of city life seemed a fair bit less hectic and rushed. And Lyon is cleaner, with fresher air (probably because there are two rivers which run through the city rather than one). And Lyon is colorful!

The train station is in the far east of the city, in the business district known as Part-Dieu. The buildings there are kind of ugly and modern. So we got off the train and quickly walked west. Once we crossed the Rhône, things started to get much nicer. The part of the city between the two rivers is called Presqu’île because the run rivers run around it to create a peninsula of sorts. It is the heart of the city of Lyon, with the most stores, apartment buildings and parks. The streets are wide, to accomodate heavy pedestrian and automobile traffic. Similar to Paris, shops occupy the ground floor of apartment buildings, and streets lead from plaza to plaza.

After wandering a bit, we crossed the Saône to visit Vieux-Lyon, where there are many many churches, old things, and the ruins of the Roman city of Lugdunum. We had heard that Lyon is the food capital of France (something I had never heard about before) and that had been part of our motivation for going. So we had been keeping eyes out the whole time for a good-looking restaurant. We found one called La Gargouille (“the gargoyle”) by an old church, with, appropriately, lots of gargoyles on it. We ordered a menu, which for only 15,80 euros brought us an entree, a plat principal, and a dessert. And the food was absolutely phenomenal! Although not better than that one Lyonnais place that we visited in Blois (ironically enough).

Then we just walked around the city more and more. It was fantastic. From up on a hill in Vieux-Lyon, the city reminds me of Florence, with the skyline of red roofs and brick chimneys and church steeples. It is absolutely beautiful and everyone should go, given the chance!!

CLICK HERE to see my other photos from Lyon.